DTD's - Duct Tape Doubles

Let me start off by saying I LooooovvvVVVEEE my duct tape double - my buddy whom I've actually named Elna.  This fitting mannequin has helped improve my alterations tremendously.  I now know how my shoulders round forward; which shoulder is higher, how deep to make darts; which seams should be curvier which should be straighter, etc.

One of my children offered to help me make a duct tape fitting model.  (Lack of cash serves as a wonderful inspiration!).  So, one cold Sunday afternoon, I donned 2 oversized T-shirts and wrapped my neck in a strip of fabric.  And we began taping.  And we taped.  And....we taped.  We even taped my upper arms though I may cut them off.  This is optional, they can get in the way of trying on garments that have little or no stretch.  Finally, when I was mostly immobilized with two layers of tape, we marked my center front, back, and sides with vertical lines; then my exact waist and hip with horizontal lines parallel to the floor.  This was important so I could attach my model to a support at the correct height and stance.

Finally, the center back was cut in a zigzag manner and I was freed!  Not done, just freed.  I had a bit more work to do.  I found that I could simply post this model over an old mesh My Double that I had inherited.  This swerved quite well as my "legs" because it swiveled and was the correct height.  Now, fore the real work - the stuffing.  It took awhile and a whole lot of poly fiberfill, but I wanted to make absolutely certain it was packed firmly without stretching the duct tape.  Finally, I went over the entire model with a third layer of tape and remarked the lines.

Elna's been working hard for me ever since.  I can fit patterns, check fit as I go along, and finalize any fitting corrections.  I also use her to try out various fabric combinations and different design or embellishment ideas like adding pleats or gathers to a garment.

Try it!  There are a lot of good instructions on line.  And Good Taping to You!

Do It Yourself Skirt Pattern

Have you ever tried Jan Minott's fitting methods? I was searching for a way to fit slacks and skirts well.  I came across an old post on the message board of Pattern Review by Seamingly Simple mentioning "The Minott Method" (http://sewing.patternreview.com/SewingDiscussions/topic/16569).  She had worked through the book on fitting skirts and slacks.  She was able to achieve a well- fitting skirt the first time!  Unbelievable!  So, naturally, I had to try that myself.

I purchased two of the Minott books that were written in the 1970's.  I believe her daughter now sells them online at:  http://minottmethod.com. The books are not exactly user-friendly.  The concepts are presented in a somewhat convoluted manner.  Yet, if you can manage to work your way through them, they can provide you with that vaunted "perfect fit". 

Needless to say, I agree wholeheartedly with Seamingly Simple (thank you, thank you, thank you!).  I was able to draft a perfectly fitting skirt the first time. Using my "hip blocks", and my personal "code",  I can easily fit any skirt pattern now.   There are a few caveats, however.  For example, Ms. Minott did not address particular issues like sway backs or flat seats specifically.  Instead, you are instructed to draft an A-line pattern using your measurements.  She has you analyze your "body type".  This body typing addresses your hip shape and posture:  standard, heart, or diamond. Using this information, you continue on until you finally create a personal skirt pattern. You make up a muslin and begin the fitting process.  She has a fairly extensive "wrinkle chart" which helps you to determine the cause and the solution to a wide variety of problems.  Next, she gives a brief way to transform your new A-line style to several different skirt variations including pencil, gauchos, dirndl (does anyone use that term anymore?), and gored. Finally, she shows you how to alter any commercial pattern once you have adjusted your personal pattern. 

I was not able to achieve a good a fit for slacks.  I'll try it again because I think I did not follow her instructions on drafting the crotch curve closely enough. If you've been struggling with fitting problems when you sew your garments, you might want to consider these books.  The Minott method definitely worked well for me, and the wealth of knowledge is a great resource.

Inspirations - the Spirit of Edith Head Lives On!

What inspires you to sew?  Do you get inspired by people you meet, what you see in a magazine or catalog, or maybe, just looking through pattern catalogs at the fabric store?  I get inspired by any, and all of these and then some. My imagination is triggered by garments other people have created and shown on the internet; also  in movies, and television programs. 

Edith Head, a well-known costume designer, created most of her designs in the 1930's- 1960's.  She received many awards, wrote books, newspaper columns and even designed sewing patterns for Advance, and Vogue among others.  Her designs have inspired me mainly through her work for movies.  For example, I adored the wardrobe she designed for Tippi Hedron in the movie "Marnie".  From tragic thief to sophisticated matron, her clothing choices were terrific.  In one scene, she is wearing a fitted charcoal gray herringbone suit and carrying a bright yellow pocketbook.  In another, she is shown wearing a pale green suede suit with a boxy jacket and pencil skirt ; yet another, she is wearing a beautiful soft, Grecian-inspired gown for a house party.  There are many other examples of wonderful, wearable designs in this one movie alone.  Ironically, the designs were created to put the movie theme at forefront rather than the clothing itself.

Ms. Head is also credited with creating that iconic bias-cut silk and lace slip Elizabeth  Taylor wore so smashingly in "Cat on a Hot Tin Roof".

 You might want to check out other costumes created for Elizabeth Taylor in the movie "Elephant Walk" on http://youtube.com.  The gowns, the negligees, even the everyday shirtwaists all offer ideas to incorporate in your own sewing.

 

Big Brother Watching or Internet Changing the Landscape

About ten years ago, I discovered the wealth of knowledge about sewing (of all things) on the internet.  I was stunned!  How can sewing - a tactile, visual hobby if there ever was one, be aided by the internet?  In the years since, I haven't even begun to plumb the depths.

The internet has been able to take a fairly solitary hobby and expand the boundaries immensely.  There are sewing competitions - volume of garments, redesign of patterns, creative designs, etc.  There are many online fabric and trim stores. There are sewing groups of every type imaginable from beginners to serious designers and everything in between.  An enormous influence has been http://sewing.patternreview.com- a site set up initially to review patterns and compare problems or luck in sewing them up.

I have found the many blogs online have served as a great source of personal inspiration.  Just check out http://sewintriguing.blogspot.com for beautiful embellishment ideas and creative designs. Yet another site to visit:  http://sewingsaga.blogspot.com.  Sherril has wonderful tips and tutorials. If you ever lose your sewing mojo or are just treading the water for awhile, search online.  Ideas are everywhere.