Have you ever tried Jan Minott's fitting methods? I was
searching for a way to fit slacks and skirts well. I came across an old post on the message
board of Pattern Review by Seamingly Simple mentioning "The Minott
Method" (http://sewing.patternreview.com/SewingDiscussions/topic/16569). She had worked through the book on fitting
skirts and slacks. She was able to
achieve a well- fitting skirt the first time!
Unbelievable! So, naturally, I
had to try that myself.
I purchased two of the Minott books that were written in the
1970's.
I believe her daughter now sells them online
at: http://minottmethod.com. The
books are not exactly user-friendly. The
concepts are presented in a somewhat convoluted manner. Yet, if you can manage to work your way
through them, they can provide you with that vaunted "perfect
fit".
Needless to say, I agree
wholeheartedly with Seamingly Simple (thank you, thank you, thank you!). I was able to draft a perfectly fitting skirt
the first time. Using my "hip blocks", and my personal
"code", I can easily fit any
skirt pattern now. There are a few caveats, however. For example, Ms. Minott did not address particular
issues like sway backs or flat seats specifically. Instead, you are instructed to draft an A-line
pattern using your measurements. She has
you analyze your "body type".
This body typing addresses your hip shape and posture: standard, heart, or diamond. Using this
information, you continue on until you finally create a personal skirt pattern.
You make up a muslin and begin the fitting process. She has a fairly extensive "wrinkle
chart" which helps you to determine the cause and the solution to a wide
variety of problems. Next, she gives a
brief way to transform your new A-line style to several different skirt variations
including pencil, gauchos, dirndl (does anyone use that term anymore?), and gored.
Finally, she shows you how to alter any commercial pattern once you have
adjusted your personal pattern.
I was not able to achieve a good a fit for slacks. I'll try it again because I think I did not
follow her instructions on drafting the crotch curve closely enough. If you've
been struggling with fitting problems when you sew your garments, you might
want to consider these books. The Minott
method definitely worked well for me, and the wealth of knowledge is a great
resource.
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